What Actually Causes Blackheads And Oily Skin In Melanin-Rich Complexions

I get asked about blackheads constantly, and most of the advice circulating online gets the biology slightly wrong in ways that matter. The colour inside a blackhead is not dirt. It is not a sign that skin is unclean or that somebody has been skipping wash day. What is actually happening is that sebum and keratin — the protein your skin sheds — collect inside a hair follicle, and when that follicle stays open and exposes that mixture to air, it oxidises and picks up melanin granules, turning dark. That darkening is a chemical reaction, and on melanin-rich skin it can look more pronounced simply because the surrounding skin carries more pigment. Understanding that small distinction changes how you approach trying to remove blackheads — because half the products marketed for this are aimed at what people assume is happening rather than what is.

There is also a separate, genuinely interesting story about sebum production in darker skin — one where the science is more contested than popular skincare writing tends to admit. The long-held assumption has been that larger sebaceous glands mean oilier skin. Some studies complicate that. And then there is what happens after a blackhead clears on deeper skin tones, which is often the part people find most frustrating, and the part that most needs explaining properly.

What actually causes blackheads — the pore biology

What drives that sebum accumulation in the first place? Several things work together. Hormones — particularly androgens — stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce more. That is why blackheads are so common in adolescence and often shift with hormonal changes throughout adulthood. Skin cell turnover also plays a role: the follicle lining sheds dead cells continuously, and if that shedding slows or the cells clump together, they can block the opening. Then there is the structural side: larger follicles and larger sebaceous glands simply have more capacity. All of this is compounded by hair products that sit at the skin surface near the hairline — more on that shortly.

One thing worth knowing: blackheads and inflammatory acne are different lesions. Blackheads are non-inflammatory by definition. If you are dealing with painful, red or purple spots that swell, that is a different process — bacteria in the follicle, an immune response — and it needs to be treated differently. Blackheads that get physically disturbed, picked or squeezed can become inflamed, which is one of the main reasons dermatologists advise against aggressive manual extraction, particularly on melanin-rich skin where any inflammation leaves a mark.

On melanin-rich skin specifically, the dark plug at the centre of a blackhead can look more dramatic because the contrast with surrounding skin pigment is greater. That is perceptual — it does not mean the blackhead itself is larger or more deeply embedded. But it does mean the mark left behind after the pore clears can be more visible and lasts considerably longer, which we cover in a separate section below.

The sebum science — what the research actually says about oily skin and melanin-rich complexions

The standard story you will find in most skincare guides goes like this: Black skin has larger sebaceous glands, therefore it produces more sebum, therefore it is oilier. That chain of logic is intuitive, but the research behind it is more complicated — and I find the complications genuinely interesting rather than inconvenient.

On the gland size side, the evidence is fairly consistent. A clinical review in Dermatologic Clinics reports that forehead biopsies showed Black subjects had significantly larger sebaceous glands than white subjects, though the number of glands per area was comparable between groups. A study comparing sebum lipid composition, published in Dermato-Endocrinology, found that African American women secreted larger amounts of sebum than Caucasian women, with wax esters — a lipid class synthesised only inside sebaceous cells — significantly elevated. So far, so consistent with the standard story.

But here is where it gets interesting. When researchers measured actual surface lipid residue — what is sitting on the skin itself — rather than gland size or secretion rate, the picture shifted. A peer-reviewed study on PMC found no statistically significant differences in residual skin surface components between African, White and Asian participants, despite an expectation going in that the African group would show greater accumulation. And a comprehensive review in Frontiers in Medicine notes that while total lipogenesis rates are generally higher in Black populations, skin of colour simultaneously shows higher moisture content and lower transepidermal water loss — meaning the skin holds water more effectively even while producing more lipid. That combination ran counter to what researchers expected to find.

What this tells us practically is that gland size, secretion rate and surface oiliness are three distinct things, and assuming the first predicts the third is not always correct. Somebody with melanin-rich skin who feels their skin is always shiny or oily may be dealing with genuinely elevated sebum production, or they may be dealing with skin that simply reflects light differently due to pigment density and surface texture, or a combination. It matters because the approach to managing oiliness should follow what is actually happening rather than what the demographic assumption says should be happening.

Dark marks after blackheads — post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation explained

This is the part that most people dealing with blackheads on deeper skin tones find hardest. The blackhead itself clears — either on its own, through consistent skincare, or after a professional extraction — and what is left behind is a flat, dark mark where the pore was. For some people that mark is more distressing than the blackhead ever was. And it can sit there for months.

What is happening is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, often shortened to PIH. Any inflammation in the skin — including the mild inflammation that follows a blackhead being dislodged or disturbed — triggers melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells, to respond. Melanocytes deposit melanin as part of the skin’s injury response. On melanin-rich skin, which already has highly active melanocytes, that response is faster, more pronounced and produces more pigment, so the resulting mark is darker and takes longer to fade. A spot that would barely leave a trace on pale skin can leave a mark that takes six months to a year to fully clear on deep skin tones, sometimes longer.

This is one reason I am cautious about recommending anything aggressive for blackheads on darker skin. Pore strips, aggressive scrubbing, hot extractions — anything that creates sudden inflammation is trading one visible problem for another one that is often harder to shift. We covered the broader picture of why darker skin marks more readily after inflammation in an earlier post, and the same melanocyte biology is at work here, just at a lower level of injury. The way I think about it: getting rid of the blackhead is the easy part. Managing the aftermath is the work.

Ingredients used for fading PIH include azelaic acid, niacinamide, kojic acid, alpha-arbutin and tranexamic acid — none of these are fast, and anything claiming to fade pigmentation in days is selling something that the biology does not support. Consistent, gentle use over weeks and months is how the marks actually fade. And sun protection matters more than most people realise: UV exposure stimulates melanocytes further and deepens existing PIH marks, so an unprotected mark takes significantly longer to clear even with otherwise good skincare. If marks are persistent, painful, spreading or changing in appearance, a dermatologist is the right next step — not another product.

Blackheads near the hairline — and why hair products are often the cause

One pattern I see come up constantly: people who develop blackheads and small bumps specifically along the hairline, across the forehead, or on the temples, and cannot work out why. Their skin elsewhere is fine. The answer, more often than not, is in what they are putting on their hair.

Heavy butters, thick pomades, edges gels and oil-rich styling products sit on the hair and on the skin just beneath the hairline. When they migrate — which they do, especially in warm weather, during sleep, or when you sweat — they sit on skin that already has active follicles and sebaceous glands. That additional layer of oil or film can block the follicle opening, effectively trapping sebum and dead cells that would otherwise make their way out. The result is comedonal acne along the hairline that has nothing to do with your sebaceous glands behaving unusually. It is a mechanical, external cause.

The solution is usually more straightforward than people expect: applying hair products more carefully, keeping them off the skin itself rather than the hair shaft, and cleansing the hairline properly on wash day. A gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser used along the hairline consistently is often enough to clear this pattern within a few weeks. If you use very rich sealants or pomades for length retention — which are genuinely useful for hair — applying them strand by strand rather than palm-to-scalp keeps the product where it belongs.

Men’s skin at the temples and sides of the face, where the beard meets the hairline, can be particularly prone to this pattern. The combination of beard grooming products and hairline products in close proximity creates exactly the kind of follicle-clogging environment that produces closed comedones and blackheads. For men looking at botanical skincare options in this area, we have a Kigelia Africana skincare line — Kigelia Africana skincare for men — and separately, the Kigelia Africana and Rosemary Beard Pomade, which is worth knowing about if the hairline-to-beard area is where you are seeing this issue.

How to actually remove blackheads — and what to stop doing

Most approaches to getting rid of blackheads fall into one of two categories: things that physically remove what is already there, and things that change the skin environment so fewer form in the first place. The second category is where most of the long-term difference comes from, and it is the one that most people underinvest in.

On the physical removal side: pore strips work by adhering to the oxidised plug at the top of the follicle and pulling it out when you peel the strip away. They do remove what is visibly there, at that moment. What they do not do is change the conditions that caused the follicle to fill in the first place, so the blackhead typically returns within one to three weeks. On melanin-rich skin, there is an additional concern — the adhesive on pore strips can cause irritation, and that irritation is what triggers PIH. Used occasionally they are unlikely to cause lasting harm. Used frequently on skin that marks easily, they tend to create more problems than they solve.

Chemical exfoliants — particularly salicylic acid, which is oil-soluble and can penetrate the follicle lining — are what dermatologists tend to recommend for managing blackheads consistently. Salicylic acid works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells inside the follicle, making it easier for accumulated material to move out rather than building up. Retinoids, which speed up skin cell turnover, work similarly but more powerfully, and they require more careful use on darker skin because of the irritation and PIH risk at higher strengths. If you are considering a retinoid for the first time, low-strength and patch-tested is the sensible starting point, not the highest percentage you can find.

Grewia mollis root bark — tideje — is a material I have been genuinely interested in for its skin applications. It is a bark from West and Central Africa that becomes mucilaginous and slippery when soaked in water, producing a gel-like consistency used traditionally for both hair and skin. It is not a blackhead treatment — nothing in this article should be read as a treatment claim — but as a cleansing and conditioning material for skin that is sensitive to harsher surfactants, it sits in a genuinely useful category. Our Organic Grewia Mollis Root Bark is available if you want to work with the material itself. For everyday care of oily or blackhead-prone skin, consistency is the thing that actually moves the needle: a non-stripping cleanser, a chemical exfoliant used steadily at low strength, sun protection, and keeping comedogenic products off the skin surface at the hairline.

And a note on professional options: if blackheads are widespread, persistent, or you are developing inflammatory acne alongside them, a consultation with a dermatologist who has experience with skin of colour is worth prioritising. Chemical peels, professional extractions and prescription-strength retinoids are all tools available in that setting, and a practitioner who understands how melanin-rich skin responds to these procedures will approach them differently — lower concentrations, longer intervals, more conservative technique — than one working primarily with pale skin. That expertise matters and is worth seeking out specifically. We also wrote a piece on when it is and is not appropriate to use a hair oil on the face, which covers some of the overlapping territory around oily and acne-prone skin if that is relevant to you.

Frequently asked questions

Why do I get blackheads on my nose?

The nose has a higher concentration of sebaceous glands than most of the face, and the follicles there tend to be larger and more open. That combination makes it the most common site for blackheads across all skin types. On melanin-rich skin the dark plug can look more pronounced due to contrast with surrounding pigment, but the underlying biology is the same. Consistent chemical exfoliation — particularly salicylic acid — is the most effective way to manage this over time.

What causes blackheads?

Blackheads form when sebum and dead skin cells accumulate inside an open hair follicle. Exposure to air causes the material to oxidise and pick up melanin granules, turning it dark. They are non-inflammatory lesions — no bacteria, no immune response involved in forming them. Hormones, skin cell turnover rate, follicle size and external products that block the follicle opening all contribute to how readily they form on any given person’s skin.

Why do I have blackheads near my hairline?

This pattern is almost always connected to hair products. Heavy oils, butters, pomades and edge control products that sit near the hairline migrate onto the skin surface during wear and sleep. They can block follicle openings at the hairline, forehead and temples, leading to comedones in exactly those areas. Applying products more precisely — on the hair shaft rather than the scalp and skin — and cleansing the hairline thoroughly on wash day usually clears this pattern within a few weeks.

Why does my skin turn dark after a blackhead or pimple?

This is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Any skin inflammation, including the mild irritation from a blackhead being disturbed or cleared, triggers melanocytes to deposit extra pigment as part of the skin’s injury response. On melanin-rich skin, which has more active melanocytes, this response is faster and more pronounced. The resulting mark can take months to fade. Sun protection slows its deepening; consistent, gentle use of azelaic acid, niacinamide or alpha-arbutin helps it fade. Persistent or changing marks should be assessed by a dermatologist.

Do pore strips actually work?

They remove the oxidised material sitting at the top of the follicle in that moment, so they produce a visible result. What they do not do is change the conditions that caused the follicle to fill — so blackheads return, usually within one to three weeks. On skin that marks readily after irritation, pore strip adhesives can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Used occasionally they are unlikely to cause lasting harm; used frequently on deeper skin tones, they tend to create marks that outlast the problem they were solving.

Getting a handle on blackheads and oily skin in melanin-rich complexions is not a single-product fix — it is about understanding what is actually happening at the follicle, managing the aftermath on skin that marks readily, and approaching the hairline with some awareness of what your hair products are doing to the skin beneath them. If you want to work with Grewia mollis root bark as part of a gentle cleansing routine, you can find it here.

Shop Organic Grewia Mollis Root Bark & Powder

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Sources

1. Rawlings, A.V. (2006). Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(2).
2. Alexis, A.F. et al. (2018). Sebaceous gland activity in Black skin. Dermatologic Clinics.
3. Jacobsen, E. et al. (2013). Age and ethnic variations in sebaceous lipids. Dermato-Endocrinology.
4. Flanner, H. et al. (2014). Effect of ethnicity, gender and age on the amount and composition of residual skin surface components. PMC.
5. PMC Dermatology Education Review (2024). Presentations of cutaneous disease in various skin pigmentations: comedonal acne. PMC.
6. Callejon, S. et al. (2010). Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. Journal of Dermatological Science.
7. Frontiers in Medicine (2026). Skin phenotype diversity across populations: from skin morphology to molecular phenotype. Frontiers in Medicine.
8. Saini, S. et al. (2020). Ethnobotany, phytochemistry and pharmacological activity of Kigelia africana. Plants (MDPI).
9. Newman, E. et al. (2021). The functional ecology of bat pollination in the African sausage tree Kigelia africana. Biotropica, 53(2).

Written by Joanna, founder of Jostylin Naturals. Natural hair for over fifteen years, 4b/4c, and genuinely interested in what the science actually says versus what the skincare industry says it says. This article covers cosmetic and educational topics only; nothing here constitutes medical advice. For persistent skin concerns, consult a qualified dermatologist with experience in skin of colour.